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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.